Haj Reflections Day 3: Autorickshaws in Mina

By Siraj Wahab

 Arab News  

Arab News, 11 Dhul Hijja, 1429, December 9, 2008

Yesterday was the beginning of the stoning ritual. Thanks to elaborate planning on the part of the Saudi authorities, the stoning at the Jamrat proceeded minus the sound of sirens that signal a deadly stampede. In any case, our team of journalists made its way to the King Abdullah Bridge to witness the proceedings. The pilgrims were marching with purpose to the Jamrat complex under the direction of their leaders. Spotting the individual groups is easy because each group leader holds a signature pole in the air. Before the rituals begin, the guides tie some object to a long, strong pole. Flags are the most common object but we've seen bunches of slippers, a tea pot, a black umbrella and a toy bicycle tied to different poles. One guide who seemed to have lost his pole was carrying a large branch from a neem tree. Whatever is different will do the job of helping the pilgrims keep their leaders in sight.

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At King Abdullah Bridge, I was accosted by an elderly Pakistani pilgrim who was lost. The green fluorescent vests we wear marking us as media cause nothing but confusion as pilgrims continue to assume we are Haj officials. Zebunnisa Begum from Karachi became separated from her husband in Arafat and she hadn't been able to find him. “I lost my husband on Sunday in the crowd,” the elderly pilgrim cried. “I looked for him in Muzdalifah last night. He is a diabetic and I am worried. You must take me to Camp 64 so someone there can help me find him.” Taking the unhappy woman to Camp 64 was out of the question as it is close to Muzdalifah — far from where I was assigned to be. I tried to point her in the right direction but she refused to go without me. “You are the first person who knows my language and my problem. If I lose you, I might never find my way!” she pleaded. “You must carry my bag. It is so heavy. You must help me just as if I were your mother. If you don't help me, I will curse you.” The situation was getting serious. Not because she was threatening to curse me, but because she was so distressed. My own parents had become separated when they performed Haj in 2001 and I remember how upsetting it was for our entire family. I wracked my brain wondering how I could assist her and then I had an idea. I rang up Abdul Aziz Chokli of the India Fraternity Forum and explained the situation to him. He promised to send someone to help and within minutes Zebunnisa Begum was being escorted back to her camp.

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The India Fraternity Forum has about 900 volunteers in Mina in order to provide assistance during the pilgrimage. The volunteers are Indian expatriates working in Saudi Arabia and they speak a variety of languages. With the support of the World Association of Muslim Youth and the Indian Consulate, these volunteers have been given permission to help at Haj. They perform roles similar to the Saudi Boy Scouts. In their saffron-colored vests and red caps, they stand out in the crowd. People from the subcontinent easily recognize them and can turn to them if assistance is needed. Each India Fraternity Forum volunteer can be reached through his mobile telephone so it is easy to direct them to go where required. Most of the volunteers are paying their own expenses to perform this valuable service and they must be commended for their initiative.

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Another group to be lauded for its initiative is the South Asian Pilgrim Est. From time to time on the streets of Mina, a bright yellow autorickshaw passes by. I have never seen an autorickshaw in any other city in the Kingdom, although they are a popular form of transport throughout the Indian subcontinent. Whether you are rich or poor, in the narrow crowded streets of India and Pakistan, there is no better way to get around than by autorickshaw. Dr. Adnan Katib, chairman of the South Asian Pilgrim Est., told us that a decade ago there was a tragedy in Mina and it was necessary to transport dozens of injured and elderly pilgrims from the Jamrat area. It had proved to be a nearly impossible task. In a brainstorming session after that Haj, a suggestion had been made to bring autorickshaws to the Haj, specifically for use in the jampacked streets of Mina. Many individuals working in Makkah during Haj depend on mopeds for transport but bikes can carry only two people — the driver and one passenger. Autorickshaws can carry three passengers and the driver, which is perfect in situations where couples are lost or elderly pilgrims need a lift. Initially, the South Asian Pilgrim Est. contracted with Bajaj Auto Ltd. to import 25 autorickshaws and experienced drivers to Saudi Arabia. That number has now grown to 50. The autorickshaws are now so well known that pilgrims use them as a means of locating the South Asian pilgrims’ camps. Who would ever imagine that something so common in India and Pakistan would be so unusual in Mina that their parking area could be used as a landmark!

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With no access to satellite TV news in Mina, it is easy to forget the economic crisis that has gripped the world. It has also been surprising to note the increased numbers of pilgrims who have come from abroad in such dire economic times. A Saudi Haj official explained that the economic crisis didn't affect the pilgrim numbers this year because all the plans and fees for these pilgrims had been set and paid more than six months ago. The pilgrims paid their fees to their local Haj authorities by May 2008 and then those officials had come to the Kingdom immediately to procure housing and services. With economic conditions in many countries getting worse, one might think that pilgrim numbers would be reduced next year, but probably this will not be the case. Every nation has a quota. For example, India's quota is 170,000 pilgrims. However, requests for 250,000 Haj permits were received this year. Many countries ask year after year for an increase in their Haj quota. It also remains to be seen how currency fluctuations will affect Muslims’ abilities to pay for the pilgrimage. The Saudi riyal is tied to the dollar so a strengthening dollar will hurt the currencies of some nations and help others. It is important to point out, however, that pilgrim numbers and the spending power of those pilgrims are two different issues. We will have to wait a few days to see if this year's pilgrims will be interested in buying extras such as Russian-made binoculars and Chinese electronics, or if traders will be disappointed by their Haj sales.